A is for Azores
The Azores is a Portuguese archipelago comprised of nine major volcanic islands: Flores, Corvo, Graciosa, Terceira, Sao Jorge, Pico, Faial, Sao Miguel, and Santa Maria. Due to its rocky foundation, mild climate, and geographical isolation, the Azores is home to intense wine, pristine landscapes, and rich wildlife. We spent seven days exploring Pico and Sao Miguel islands, which was full of adventure and misadventures!
While the Azores are now gaining in popularity, the islands (especially outside of Sao Miguel) are less developed and weather is unpredictable. Be prepared for the unexpected, such as the lack of automatic transmission vehicles, driving on the left side of the road, cash-only establishments, weather-related disruptions, and last minute flight cancellations. One of the reasons we have always traveled well together is because we’re willing to “roll with the punches”, and are content spending time with each other, no matter what we’re doing.
Check out our full trip video on YouTube!
Day 1
Arrived in Pico (Pico Airport, PIX)
Checked into our AirBNB, Casa do Alecrim - we loved our accommodations but it was located in Terra Alta (not Sao Roque as noted in the listing), which is a bit of a drive from all the action in Madalena.
Guided hike on Mt. Pico with Tripix Azores
Dinner at Azores Wine Company - we weren’t expecting a world class dining experience on such a remote island, but Azores Wine Company was a delightful surprise. The tasting menu and wine pairing are inventive and inspired by local products, and complemented with breathtaking views.
Day 2
Whale and dolphin watching with CW Azores - we spotted a shark, 10+ sperm whales (with several mother / baby pairs), and two separate pods of dolphins. The info session provided before the tour was fascinating and set the stage for a memorable experience.
Grabbed drinks at the architecturally inspired Cella Bar
Dinner at Magma - located near our AirBNB and offered a otherworldly sunset.
Day 3
Wine tasting tour in Criacao Velha with Pico Girl Power Wine Tour - Silvia was an excellent tour guide, and knowledgeable of the region, history, and wine varieties. The vineyards are built among volcanic rock and designated an UNESCO World Heritage site.
Swam at Piscinas Naturais da Criação Velha - Silvia brought us to this natural pool as part of the wine tasting tour, but it is open to the public, too. The pool has bathroom facilities and a café that serves delectable crab and limpets. Bring snorkel gear if you want to scope out the fun wild life in the pool!
Visited Etnom Winery - Silvia brought us to this winery as part of the wine tasting tour and we instantly fell in love. Founded by bad@ss winemaker Catia Laranjo, she plays Florence & the Machine to her grapes. We tasted her award winning wine under a canopy of kiwis while snacking on cheese, fruit, and crackers.
Day 4
Flew to Sao Miguel (Ponta Delgada Airport, PDL)
Checked into the La Maison at White Azores - we rented a cliffside villa with its own private pool and hot tub as our big splurge for the trip. The villa was modern and stunning and the daily breakfast spread was decadent.
Visited a pineapple plantation - there are two pineapple plantations on the island. It was interesting to see how pineapples grow and then taste all sorts of pineapple-infused snacks after (liqueur, ice cream, jam, etc.)
Dinner at Louvre Michaelense - this was our favorite “casual” meal of the trip and we ended up ordering five entrees for four people because it was that good. We didn’t have reservations and the staff was kind enough to accommodate us anyway.
Day 5
Hiked at Sete Cidades - these lakes are the geological focal point of Sao Miguel and would have been spectacular to see. Unfortunately, the day was incredibly foggy and when we reached the view point, there was no visibility whatsoever. On the bright side, the fog made the hike up eerily beautiful.
Rented duck paddle boat at Futurismo Azores Adventures - making the most of the dreary weather, we headed lakeside to rent duck-shaped paddle boats. They let us bring a bottle of wine onto the boat, and it ended up being a fun way to spend a couple hours.
Drove to Ponta da Ferraria - although the seas were too rough to swim when we came, the seascape was absolutely stunning and worth spending a few minutes walking around.
Dinner of Azorean Cheese Fondue on a cliffside - one of the more unique dining experiences on our trip. Hosted by Asnate who came from Latvia and purchased a rundown cliffside house and did a complete renovation. Expect to hike 10-15 minutes down to her house (and back up after dinner), which is rewarded by stunning views and an immaculate sunset. Please say “hi” to the grumpy cat, El Moustachio, and tell him we love him!
Day 6
Swam in the hot springs of Parque Terra Nostra in Furnas - this park boasts a whimsical botanical garden and a copper-colored thermal pool (bring dark bathing suits only)! While in town, try Cozida Das Furnas, which is a stew slow cooked underground in the volcanic heat.
Gin tasting and dinner at The Gin Library - you may not expect the world’s second largest gin collection to be situated in the Azores, but alas, they are! The gin tasting included a fascinating and detailed history of gin, including the Gin Craze of the 1700’s when degenerate alcoholics nearly destroyed London. Bring a bottle that is not already in their library and get a signed bottle of their small batch gin in exchange.
Day 7
Lounged and booked massages at our villa at White Azores
Dinner at Cardume - after a full week of activities, it was nice to have a “chill” day at the hotel. Cardume is located in the main White Azores complex, helmed by Chef William Blake. The menu features local fresh fish, Azorean meat, and fruits and vegetables from the hotel’s organic farm.
